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Messages - Rod

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1
Mod fashion and style / Re: Clothes bargains, pass 'em on...
« on: October 24, 2020, 11:53:27 AM »
Amateurs will only slim from one side which buggers up the central line of the crease down your leg. To do it properly you have to specify that they take an equal amount from inseam and outseam.

2
Mod fashion and style / Re: The What Are You Wearing Thread
« on: October 23, 2020, 08:26:27 PM »
Always good to see that bespoke seersucker get an airing Syd.
Mine is a much more humble version. Along with the pincord I mentioned recently, which I dress up with a shirt and tie for work trips, I got a paper thin uniqlo one for about $25 to wear casually but very rarely get it out. The jacket wearing season is so short round here (still hasn’t arrived yet!) that when it does finally come along I have a lot of competition between, harringtons, monkeys, MA-1s, A-2, denim truckers, leather and suede truckers, ice cream jackets, cotton, linen and seersucker blazers and boating blazers. Before I get through half of that lot it’s too hot to be needing one again!

3
Mod fashion and style / Re: Whats the last item you bought?
« on: October 23, 2020, 01:46:18 PM »
This business about “the rules” ...

I think at this point on our sartorial journeys most, if not all of us are aware of them, and most if not all of us break some of them some of the time, which is absolutely fine. The ‘rules’ such as they are, are a guideline and some have their roots in unassailable logic, the breaking of which would look objectively bad to anyone with working vision. (Sometimes/always/never).  Others have their roots in some long-lost spurious and ancient tradition and are wide open for acceptance, rejection or reinterpretation as we all see fit. That’s what keeps life interesting.

4
Mod fashion and style / Re: The "Broken Suit" an informal poll
« on: October 22, 2020, 06:42:33 PM »
Mike - In the central overlap of the Venn diagram of our wardrobes there will be, among other things ...

Cream cotton BB blazer, which I wear with marine blue cotton strides

Royal blue wool Ted Baker jacket with light grey windowpane, which I wear with light silver-grey wool strides

5
Mod fashion and style / Re: Whats the last item you bought?
« on: October 22, 2020, 06:32:50 PM »
Back in the revival days I wore a button down under a suit with a tie but who among us was not a bit clueless then, early teenage years.

Since I came to America I took a huge dislike to the ever present Oxford cloth BD that was seen everywhere, the default uniform of the clueless and style-less.

Over time I’ve softened my approach to BDs although remain a bit baffled by the adulation they get both from office drones everywhere and Ivy enthusiasts. I now own about three BDs which I wear under a jacket without a tie.  I accept that in this scenario the BD collar stands up under a jacket and looks much better than either a polo collar which sinks below the jacket or a standard dress shirt collar which will often collapse on itself and look crap. I’m a reluctant wearer of open neck shirts but in the current clothing climate they are somewhat inevitable so I suppose a BD shirt has its place.

I think there’s an old pic of a Cary Grant wearing a BD with French cuffs.  Can’t remember but it may have been in The Bishops’s Wife (in which he wears a 3pressed2 suit) - but to me they are a bit incongruent - the casual nature of a BD collar with the dressed up nature French cuffs and links. Anyway, post pics of the full outfit and I may be convinced otherwise!

6
Mod fashion and style / Re: The "Broken Suit" an informal poll
« on: October 22, 2020, 05:20:49 PM »
Over on Styleforum they’ve coined the phrase ‘northern lights’ to describe a jacket lighter than the strides. I think it may have come about as a reaction to the oft-expressed fallacy that navy odd trousers can never look good.

I think wearing a lighter jacket and wearing dark blue or navy strides can be more challenging but can certainly be done successfully. I have two outfits that I wear which have a lighter jacket and dark blue / navy strides. One is a cotton Uniqlo pincord jacket which I wear with dark blue sta pressts, the other I’m wearing today - a light grey gingham check wool Ted Baker jacket with dark petrol-blue wool strides.

7
Mod fashion and style / Re: The "Broken Suit" an informal poll
« on: October 22, 2020, 01:55:23 PM »
I disagree Dr G that the jacket has to be lighter than the trousers. What about repurposing a navy suit jacket with mid/light grey strides? This is a habit commonly advocated in generic menswear advice circles for those who are travelling light and want to wear a suit to the business meeting and have a second outfit for the informal get together without having to pack a load of gear.

I got a tobacco linen suit from Suitsupply which was a ‘blazersuit’ with patched lower pockets and I had it in mind to break it up with the addition of a pair of cream linen strides. I think I did this a couple of times then came across a wool-cotton jacket in ‘nutmeg’ from J Crew at a deep discount so I no longer have a need to break up the suit as I have the same result from separates. Again, in each case strides much lighter than jacket!

https://rodsmodblog.wordpress.com/2016/07/30/rods-togs-the-brown-suit/

https://rodsmodblog.wordpress.com/2019/04/30/rods-togs-wool-cotton-blazer/


8
Mod fashion and style / Re: Whats the last item you bought?
« on: October 21, 2020, 03:02:59 AM »
It might just be the way the shirt is folded/rumpled but it looks like there’s zero tie space there for a shirt which I assume was made with tie-wearing in mind.
I had a plain white shirt made bespoke for my wedding, with the idea that it could be used again for formal functions. I was happy enough with the result considering it was my first ever full bespoke commission (readers of my blog will know that the same tailor made a complete mess of my wedding suit!) but my one regret was that I didn’t specify more tie space. I wasn’t fully aware of the terminology at the time but if I could roll back the clock ... but then as they say back home, if my auntie had a knob she’d be my uncle!

9
Mod fashion and style / Re: Whats the last item you bought?
« on: October 17, 2020, 01:01:46 PM »
Tsk, tsk, condescension is a funny thing; to be entitled to it (if someone really is) you need to be smarter than your victim, but usually it's just the opposite.

Interesting points, Rod. Nowadays, as Matt pointed out, I find the "mod" tag restricting, just like every tag really, but the 60s mod scene has been hugely influential in shaping my aesthetic preferences, and the revival mod scene triggers my nostalgia so I have a soft spot for both. I mean, if someone calls me a mod (or a trad or a retro), well, it's OK by me. Not a dirty work to me, so to speak.

Regarding mod as a forward-looking movement: like many well-sounding, empty statements ("mods were amphetamine and Jean Paul Sartre" comes to mind), there lies a huge paradox behind it: if you sever the ties of the mod scene with the 60s, the term becomes meaningless, "mod" can be everything that's up to date.

Good post Syd and your last paragraph sums up the paradox. How can anyone call themselves ‘Mod’ if they’re obsessed with the past? It’s a fair question but for me the ne plus ultra of menswear was that early sixties style. Luckily for me it’s classic enough to be adaptable into today’s world without looking like fancy dress / cosplay so I’m happy to admit being influenced by that look even though with the exception of one or two vintage acquisitions the vast majority of my current threads were acquired in the last ten years, so fairly modern, right?

Also - a large part of what motivates my clothing purchases is ‘will this look OK in the next X years?’ as if I throw down some dough for a suit, jacket etc I want to be able to wear it for years to come, so unlike the sixties Mods I’m not interested in fast fashion and one-upmanship and rapid evolution. I carefully decided what I think looked good in the past, continues to look good now and will continue to look good in the future and have that thought in the back of my mind when deciding if I should get something.

And bringing this back to the ‘what’s the latest item you bought’ theme of the thread - I just got a bright blue solid linen Boglioli cotton-linen blazer. Three buttons, side vents, semi-slim lapels. Would not look out of place in the pages of Richard Barnes’ book, but acquired brand new from ebay!

Totally with you, Rod, maybe the key issue here is that the classic early 60s clobber, that to me was the absolute peak of 20th Century men's fashion, has stood the test of time (unlike other decades' stuff) and still seems appropiate for guys our age, be it mod, Ivy or whatever you choose to call it. It's somehow an out-of-trends, timeless style by now.

On your latest purchase, I hope it'll get adequately featured here or at least in your blog  8)

Will definitely post pics here and on the blog when it’s ready. Boglioli sends their jackets with unfinished sleeves and a packet of buttons so I’ll have to drop this off at the tailor. I live in a semi-remote area and the tailor is about 25 miles away near the airport so I usually stop by there whenever I’m flying - which would ordinarily be almost every week but is obviously few and far between these days.

Blog updates have been a bit sparse too - partly as I haven’t been dressed so often but also Wordpress did another update making it ridiculously difficult to post basic stuff and I’m still fighting with the new system.

10
Mod fashion and style / Re: Whats the last item you bought?
« on: October 16, 2020, 08:37:29 PM »
Tsk, tsk, condescension is a funny thing; to be entitled to it (if someone really is) you need to be smarter than your victim, but usually it's just the opposite.

Interesting points, Rod. Nowadays, as Matt pointed out, I find the "mod" tag restricting, just like every tag really, but the 60s mod scene has been hugely influential in shaping my aesthetic preferences, and the revival mod scene triggers my nostalgia so I have a soft spot for both. I mean, if someone calls me a mod (or a trad or a retro), well, it's OK by me. Not a dirty work to me, so to speak.

Regarding mod as a forward-looking movement: like many well-sounding, empty statements ("mods were amphetamine and Jean Paul Sartre" comes to mind), there lies a huge paradox behind it: if you sever the ties of the mod scene with the 60s, the term becomes meaningless, "mod" can be everything that's up to date.

Good post Syd and your last paragraph sums up the paradox. How can anyone call themselves ‘Mod’ if they’re obsessed with the past? It’s a fair question but for me the ne plus ultra of menswear was that early sixties style. Luckily for me it’s classic enough to be adaptable into today’s world without looking like fancy dress / cosplay so I’m happy to admit being influenced by that look even though with the exception of one or two vintage acquisitions the vast majority of my current threads were acquired in the last ten years, so fairly modern, right?

Also - a large part of what motivates my clothing purchases is ‘will this look OK in the next X years?’ as if I throw down some dough for a suit, jacket etc I want to be able to wear it for years to come, so unlike the sixties Mods I’m not interested in fast fashion and one-upmanship and rapid evolution. I carefully decided what I think looked good in the past, continues to look good now and will continue to look good in the future and have that thought in the back of my mind when deciding if I should get something.

And bringing this back to the ‘what’s the latest item you bought’ theme of the thread - I just got a bright blue solid linen Boglioli cotton-linen blazer. Three buttons, side vents, semi-slim lapels. Would not look out of place in the pages of Richard Barnes’ book, but acquired brand new from ebay!

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